In a store in Iqaluit, Ainia Nooshoota is preparing narwhal meat, a rare delicacy recently caught by hunters 750 kilometers away in northern Nunavut. Manager of the Qinnirvik Country Food and Bulk Store, Nooshoota mentioned that narwhal meat is not always easily accessible in the area, so she usually consumes beluga instead. Describing narwhal meat as chewy with a light, mild flavor and no distinct taste, she expressed her fondness for it.
Narwhal meat, known for its chewy texture, is often consumed raw but can also be cooked in seasoned stews or soups, with maktaaq, which are pieces of the skin and blubber, considered a special delicacy. The store’s freezer is stocked with a variety of country foods such as caribou, seal, and Arctic char, sourced from the land, air, and water. These foods are crucial not only in addressing food insecurity in Canada’s North but also in preserving Inuit culture, according to advocates.
Joseph Murdoch-Flowers, the executive director of the Qajuqturvik Community Food Centre (QCFC), emphasized the significance of hunting in Inuit life. He highlighted that consuming country food helps individuals feel more connected to Inuit culture and promotes the practice of sovereignty through food.
Since 2022, QCFC has collaborated with approximately 20 hunters and fishers to provide seasonal catches from various regions across Nunavut. The food is sold on a sliding scale at the store, and the non-profit organization also operates a kitchen that offers free daily meals and food boxes containing country food. Funding for the food center is derived from a combination of federal, territorial, and municipal funding, as well as donations.
Statistics Canada reported that in 2022, 63% of households in Nunavut experienced food insecurity, significantly higher than the rate in southern provinces. High grocery prices in the North, exacerbated by the COVID-19 pandemic, contribute to this issue. Murdoch-Flowers explained that the hunting initiative benefits both struggling individuals and the hunters themselves by providing direct payment and funding for hunts that can help feed local communities.
The program’s goal is to pass on traditional hunting and fishing skills to younger Inuit, fostering sustainability within their communities. Murdoch-Flowers aims to launch this initiative with the support of government funding and private donations. Additionally, a significant country food-sharing economy already exists in Nunavut, where platforms like Facebook facilitate the exchange of excess food from hunts.
Johnny Flaherty, a hunter not affiliated with the QCFC program, highlighted the financial challenges of hunting expeditions, emphasizing the importance of respecting the animals caught and utilizing all parts of the animal. Flaherty and his wife, Inuk chef Sheila Flaherty, emphasized the value of maintaining traditional practices and cultural heritage through hunting and harvesting.
Food insecurity affects everyone in Iqaluit, regardless of their socioeconomic status. The QCFC provides free meals to residents, aiming to address this issue and foster a sense of community support. Curtis Mesher, a board member at QCFC, emphasized the importance of coming together as a community to combat food insecurity and highlighted the role of country food in meeting this need while preserving cultural connections.
Overall, country food not only sustains individuals but also fosters relationships between hunters, the land, and the animals, as emphasized by Murdoch-Flowers. Addressing long-term food insecurity requires collaborative efforts within the community, combining traditional practices with tangible solutions for a sustainable future.
